Traveling to Alexandria, Egypt

[EJCC]

(Not sure if this is the right subforum, but I'm not sure where else travel/culture stuff would go.)

I'm spending 8 weeks in Alexandria, Egypt over the summer, studying intensive advanced-level Arabic, trying to figure out 'ammiyya (dialect), and generally studying a whole lot, and only going out and having fun when I have the time for it, and when the program hasn't scheduled something for me to do.

We'll be traveling to the North Coast for one weekend, and to Cairo for another. Our classes will be from 8am to 2pm, our homework will probably take us 4-5 hours, but the rest of the day will be free for hanging out with each other, with our language partners, and generally having a good time.

Keeping all of these (possibly unnecessary) details in mind... If you've been to Egypt (or anywhere nearby), or if you know any fun phrases in Egyptian Arabic for me to learn, or good songs to sing (besides "Inta Masry" by Nancy Ajram), or general tips/warnings for a wayward American (female) traveler to Alexandria, this is the place to post them! And surely someone else who would plan to go to Egypt might benefit from this thread too.

So... Does anyone have any words of wisdom for me?

!شكرا جزيلا

 

[Halla74]

So... Does anyone have any words of wisdom for me?

(1) Be very courteous to the staff of the hotel you are staying at. Tip them well. They will offer you useful information to keep you alive if you tip them well. I'm not kidding.

(2) "When in Rome, do as the Romans do." - There's alot of truth to this age old expression.

(3) Don't go off anywhere by yourself. Stay with people from your group.

(4) I'd give the same advice to you traveling to ANY CITY.

(5) Use your common sense; be aware of scoietal norms, including who's in charge in your area, and what common crimes are in that region. Chances are if it's a big tourist spot, things like pick-pocketing and other forms of pilfery are not uncommon.

Have fun, and good luck!!



-Alex

 

[Anew Leaf]

I'm so jealous!!!

Have a brilliant time!! Be SAFE!!

Also share loads of photos... you need a new blog.

If you don't, I shall cry.

P.S. listen to halla

 

[UniqueMixture]

My friend lived in cairo for 5 years tizek hammurah and ahyz bieera are all I know. Good luck! (Don't say the first it means "your ass is red" [because someone was assfucking you])

Oh yeah don't buy trinkets from street vendors

Haggle! They will inflate the price on you

If a woman is alone in a bar she is probably a prostitute so steer clear

The culture is super conservative beware.

Don't hook up with other ex-pats it causes lots of drama.

 

[Oaky]

I have been living in Egypt for the past two-three years now EJCC. Granted, I'm not very fluent in Arabic but I know a little more than enough to get by. If you wish, we could have a meet-up in your free time. I'd be in Cairo but I'd not find much difficulty in reaching Alexandria to give it a look for a day. Locals in Egypt are often very curious as well as people-inclined so it's highly likely you'll get a large number of social interactions with repeating patterns of questions. Quite likely by the end of the 8 weeks you will have memorised a lot of your replies. It's a flexible country where the nodes of fun can be altered in what you wish, so it's always good to explore to see what things you would enjoy. I've heard good things about the Alexandria library so I'd imagine it may good spot to give a look.

 

[SD45T-2]

So... Does anyone have any words of wisdom for me?

If you are taking small arms fire remember that most parts of a car are cover, not concealment. The only part of car that will provide reliable cover is the engine block. Other than that, stay frosty and don't pet a burning dog.

 

[EJCC]

Great advice, [MENTION=6109]Halla74[/MENTION], as per usual.

And [MENTION=13402]Saturned[/MENTION], I'll be creating a blog, but it won't be on TypeC -- in fact, I don't plan on spending ANY time on TypeC during those eight weeks, because I want to avoid the English language as much as possible -- so I'll distribute the URL at some point before I leave.

My friend lived in cairo for 5 years tizek hammurah and ahyz bieera are all I know. Good luck! (Don't say the first it means "your ass is red" [because someone was assfucking you])

I'll keep that in mind! What does the second one mean?

Oh yeah don't buy trinkets from street vendors

So if I do want trinkets (say, for friends back home), where do I buy them?

Haggle! They will inflate the price on you

Yes indeed! I've heard that from other people who've been to Egypt. I've also heard -- and I'm not sure if this will work -- that the price they offer will be lower if I tell them I'm Canadian.

The culture is super conservative beware.

! I'm wearing clothes that cover my elbows and knees (and cleavage) at all times, and I'm considering covering my head, too.

Don't hook up with other ex-pats it causes lots of drama.

Excellent advice!
Thanks for this post

If you are taking small arms fire remember that most parts of a car are cover, not concealment. The only part of car that will provide reliable cover is the engine block. Other than that, stay frosty and don't pet a burning dog.

I'm going to Alexandria, not Mogadishu!
Thanks, though.

I have been living in Egypt for the past two-three years now EJCC. Granted, I'm not very fluent in Arabic but I know a little more than enough to get by. If you wish, we could have a meet-up in your free time. I'd be in Cairo but I'd not find much difficulty in reaching Alexandria to give it a look for a day.

Wow! I had no idea. I guess I presumed you lived in Europe, this whole time. A meet-up could work. I'm probably going to be extremely busy -- and I'm not sure how hyper-scheduled my life will be as a result -- so I'm not sure. But I think it could happen?

If it's not too personal -- what inspired you to move to Egypt, and what do you do there?

Locals in Egypt are often very curious as well as people-inclined so it's highly likely you'll get a large number of social interactions with repeating patterns of questions. Quite likely by the end of the 8 weeks you will have memorised a lot of your replies. It's a flexible country where the nodes of fun can be altered in what you wish, so it's always good to explore to see what things you would enjoy. I've heard good things about the Alexandria library so I'd imagine it may good spot to give a look.

Oh, absolutely! It's pretty close to the university where we'll be taking our classes, I think. Apparently past students in the program have had lunch at the Library cafeteria every day during their half-hour lunch break.

I'll bet you're right about the replies. Has it been the same for you? Do you have any general social tips based on your time in Egypt?

 

[UniqueMixture]

[MENTION=4945]EJCC[/MENTION]: the second one means "I want a beer" or "Bring me a beer." Something like that. As we all know it is important to know 4 phrases in any language:

A. Hello, how are you?
2. Bring me a beer.
C. Thank you.
4. You have beautiful eyes or if the beer was not brought in a timely manner the proper curseword/phrase

You can buy trinkets on the street just don't be guilt tripped into doing it and do not go home with them to meet their families! . They'll just try to sell you more stuff haha.

Oh, and stock up at the duty-free store in the airport. Basic "western" goods are like twice the price they are here because only the elites can afford them.

As a woman you may have difficulty traveling alone. I don't know how it is for expats there, but if an Egyptian woman is seen talking to a stranger in public (for example a cafe) she is assumed to be a prostitute.

Lastly, I hear cafes are a great place to hang out esp. if you like turkish coffee & hookah.

 

[Southern Kross]

WARNING LONG POST

I travelled to Egypt a few years ago and learned a little arabi.

Egypt is an amazing place to visit, but it can be a hard place to be travel in (especially as a western woman). Tips I would give:

• Clothing.
  Take lots of light-coloured, comfortable, cotton clothes. I didn't go to Alexandria but even in north, I imagine you will cook in the summer - and unfortunately wearing skimpy clothing isn't appropriate. Wear tops that covers your chest, shoulders and upper arms and wear long skirts or pants. Make sure they're fairly loose, for modesty and so you don't expire in the heat. It is a moderate muslim nation so don't get too panicky or upset about dressing modestly - it's mainly a respectful cultural courtesy and it discourages disapproving (or creepy) looks. Find yourself a nice all purpose light scarf/shawl to drape around your neck. This can help make lower cut outfits a bit more modest, it absorbs the sweat and it comes in handy when you walk into a mosque (so you can just pop it over your hair). Wearing a hijab is not expected of you, although it is a good idea to cover your hair in a mosque - but even then, often people don't seem to mind.
• Markets/tourist places
  Egyptians are lovely people, but to many you are merely a walking wallet. You will get BOMBARDED with people trying to entice you into their shop, to be your tour guide, to sell you a ride on their boat/camel/donkey/horse and cart/taxi etc. It isn't as bad in Cairo as it was in Sinai and in the South but you still get it everywhere. You have to steel yourself a little. People will try to exploit your politeness and lack of knowledge and will try to emotionally manipulate you. I found sometimes you simply had to avoid eye contact, ignore people or coldly wave them off with "Laa, Laa". This sounds (and feels) very rude but it's whole lot better than flying into a total rage and ripping them a new one, which, after a while, even this patient, understanding, mild-mannered, INFP did a few times.
• Baksheesh and other payments
  I'm sure you've heard about this by now - Baksheesh is a mixture of tip and bribe. It isn't customary for people to help you for free in Egypt. So smiling people inside tourism spots are often about to offer to help you in some way for Baksheesh - if you don't want to pay, avoid them. When I was there, a small favour required 1 or 2 Egyptian pounds (20-40 cents US). Everything costs money in Egypt so sometimes you will have to pay twice for things. For example, at Giza you pay to get in but you also have to pay to go inside the Great Pyramid (which was grossly overpriced and I heard that it was not that worth it, so I didn't do it). Also at the Cairo Museum, it cost something like EP50 to get in but another EP100 to see the royal mummies (which were totally worth it). Also sometimes people lie and say you have to pay extra, when you don't. When I went to the Red Pyramid our tour guide told us not to pay the guy at the entrance, who claims you needed to in order to go inside (also so worth doing!).
• Bargaining
  Make sure you learn how much things really cost and don't get taken for a ride. In Egypt there are 3 different prices ranges for a single product: Egyptian/locals price, smart tourist price, and dumb tourist price. You will probably never get the super cheap price locals pay but you will have to develop bargaining skills if you don't want to get the dumb tourist price. Bargaining is used almost everywhere except proper established shops in cities (like a convenience store), public transport or to get into tourist sites etc. Always make your starting offer far less than you are actually prepared to pay and progressively drive down the shopkeeper's price. Don't show too much interest in the product (they see this as weakness and will exploit it) and be prepared to walk out rather than get ripped off. Walking out is seen as hardcore bargaining and they will usually try to stop you leaving to secure a deal. Often during bargaining shopkeepers will go on about needing to feed their family and about how they won't make any money off selling it at that price etc - don't fall for this ploy, and remember, they won't ever agree to a price they aren't happy about, no matter how much they gripe about it.
• Water and dehydration
  It's not as much of a problem in Alexandria, but further south (like Cairo, or worse, Luxor), in such a hot climate, you need to drink ridiculous amounts of water. If you are outside walking about, you will need about a litre (about a 1/4 of a gallon) per hour. You will sweat like nobody's business, so much so you can drink gallons of water and go without needing to pee all day. Don't drink the water out of the tap (including things like ice in your coke) because your delicate western stomach won't take it, but eating the food is fine (although it is better to avoid unpackaged raw food or fruit you haven't washed yourself). Read the nutritional labels on bottled water - some brands are full of chemicals and taste like pool water, so those are best to be avoided. Also take a whole bunch of hand sanitiser. Even touching Egyptian money is like sticking your hand inside a public toilet that hasn't been cleaned since last century - it's beyond filthy.
• Sexual harrasment
  Unfortunately Egyptian men are a bit confused by Western women. They watch a lot of Hollywood movies where women all behave like total sluts and some then think this is reflective of western women in general. You may get the odd pervy comment or get touched inappropriately. Dressing modestly can discourage this but some are just creeps. I personally only had a few experiences of this (gross teenage boys) but I have heard many other women have them too. Apparently the best course of action is to say "shame!" in Arabic (unfortunately I can't recall the word itself now). This makes them feel guilty and they don't do it again.
• Transport
  Travel first class on trains if they give you the choice - 2nd class is not worth the meagre saving. Cairo taxi drivers drive like TOTAL MANIACS and there is next to no traffic laws enforced. I remember my drivers weaving through oncoming traffic and careering around corners, down narrow lanes, dodging pedestrians by inches at 80km/hr. Sometimes I had to close my eyes and grip the armrest, because I believed it likely that myself or others would be killed imminently. You just have to have faith in their abilities - they know what they're doing. Also crossing the road in Cairo is like Russian roulette. The traffic is so heavy and fast-moving that it's borderline impossible to get across. Believe it or not, what you have to do is find a half gap and just step out and start walking across, letting the cars dodge you. As long as you walk they can gauge where you are and avoid you - don't run! The other option is get a local between you and the cars and walk when he/she does. Nonetheless, it's one of the most terrifying things I've ever done.
• Rules and systems
  Prepare for lots of abritray rules; particularly about what you can take pictures of. It's frustrating as hell but there can be harsh fines. Also, nothing runs on time, follows a schedule or is remotely efficient - take this into account
• Safety
  Egypt is a safe place. You are probably safer from mugging, pick pocketing or being attacked than you would be in say France or Italy. Some people will try to convince you to be paranoid but you don't need to be. I backpacked around the country by myself and walked around alone at night and felt safe as anything. You will get strange looks a lot because you really stand out - but there's nothing in it and you just need to get used to it.

Sorry for the novel but it helps to be prepared for Egypt. I can suggest some more specific places to visit if you want - just let me know. Have lots of fun though! It's a beautiful place! As'salaam aleykum wa ma'assalama!

BTW, "kus emek" is the best Arabic swearword

 

[figsfiggyfigs]

tizek hammurah

Tizek hammurah= donkey's ass(feminine)

Tizek AHmarr= Red ass. (masculine)


But then again, this could have a lot to do with dialect.

edit: humrah is also a way to say red. but also feminine.



@ EJCC, Good luck, and have a ton of fun. Make sure you try local foods. They usually have great noms everywhere. There is an episode of Anthony Bourdain where he goes to Egypt and covers the popular local foods in Egypt, so I suggest you check that out.

I've never been to Egypt, but I've been to a few Arabic countries with similar temperatures and customs.

Make sure you keep a really good eye on your things at all times.

Be nice, but ALWAYS be at least slightly suspicious of people. A lot of people will try to to trick you out of or into thing. Especially the kids.

Try not to get too physically close to guys. I don't know about Egypt, but Arabic countries have the odd ill-mannered pincher or two :/
Don't wear anything too revealing.

Try to talk as low as possible, or you'll have stalkers following you around and eavesdropping to your conversations, or constantly making remarks at you in English.

When shopping, make sure you practice your Arabic; try to refrain from using English as this will likely make the prices go up double fold. This is the curse of the foreign shopper.

Do not smile at men, or they will likely misinterpret that as sexual interest.

Take some anti-nausea and peptobismol medication.

ALWAYS carry water with you and wear a summer hat to keep the sun off your head.

Take very light summer clothing because it will be very hot, and you wont be able to dress too revealingly. That means don't bring jeans, nor skirts. Linen or cargo pants will help.

SUNSCREEN!!

A hand held fan when you're stuck in a taxi cab or a place without air conditioning.

Strong but light sandals, because the street markets can be very chaotic and you can easily trip and snap your sandals.

Always stay with a friend. Never wonder off on your own.

It is important to be respectful, especially the older people. Salamalakum, and maslama are useful greetings.


Edit: Souther Kross had a great post, I'd listen to her!

BTW, "kus emek" is the best Arabic swearword

lol! BAD!

 

[SilkRoad]

I am so excited for you!!! I went to Egypt a couple of years ago, just Cairo and around. Unfortunately we didn't make it to Alexandria.

I think most of what I'd say has been covered. You could wear a wedding ring (or just a wedding-ish ring on that finger) and be prepared to lie about a husband or fiancee if asked. I don't usually advocate lying but in that respect it might be advisable. I was with a group of friends including men which helped a lot - I would have expected more harassment otherwise from all I've heard. Definitely wear long skirts (which I found very comfortable in 40 degree heat) or baggy (prefereably linen) trousers and tops that at least cover your shoulders, preferably elbow-length sleeves or so. Also the tip about a drapy scarf/shawl is good as you can use it for covering a low-cut top, putting on your head for heat or modesty, etc.

Although it probably makes me sound prejudiced, I'm extremely wary of Arab men partly from travelling in North Africa and partly from experiences living in Europe (more the latter, really.) The tips already have been good. Avoid eye contact and smiling at random men. I doubt you're the type to get swept away by extravagant compliments (and believe me, you will get at least some extravagant compliments) but, you know, if that cute guy wants you to marry him and run away, I'd say don't. Incidentally, it is a documented fact that Egyptian men (in particular) don't only harass western women because of the slutty image, which is a problem generally in that part of the world. They also harass and assault their own women pretty routinely. Again, I know this makes me sound biased but it is a well documented fact.

In Cairo, of course you have to visit the Giza Pyramids but Saqqara (with the older, smaller pyramids) is amazing too. Less touristy as well, though I hear that tourism is way down since the revolution so the Giza Pyramids might be relatively quiet. Also the Egyptian Museum, and the Citadel. The City of the Dead is kind of a trip - though I felt a bit intrusive as it is where relatively poor people live among the tombs, just a neighbourhood really. But when I walked through there with my friend, people were greeting us, wanted to know where we were from and seemed really happy we'd walked through! And you MUST go to Al-Azhar Park if you have time, it was a magical escape from the crazy city.

At the Giza Pyramids, if someone tells you that you can't walk up to the pyramids on your own any more, and you must do it on a tour, and their tour is the best, it's a load of crap. (And someone or several people will probably try that.) Just ignore them and walk away - unless you really want to do a tour (with horse drawn carriages, etc) and it seems good. I paid to go into one of the pyramids - Khufu, I think, not Cheops. The slightly smaller one. It was pretty cool though there isn't loads to see.

Stay in groups. I wouldn't go off alone though you'd probably be ok, but better not, I'd say. If you're with just one other person at some point, it might be better if it's a man, although people will likely assume it's your husband and will ignore you and talk to him only (in a lot of cases.) Although, in Morocco I was with just one female friend and basically we were fine. We got some hassle and marriage proposals but generally it didn't feel threatening. I've heard it can be a lot more threatening in Egypt though my experiences weren't bad, but again, I was travelling with men.

Accept hospitality if it seems wise, perhaps in a large enough mixed group. It's a very hospitable culture. Tell people you're happy to be in their country and enjoying it, they appreciate that.

Keep an eye on the security situation as obviously Egypt has been unstable the last 2 years. (I was there six months before the revolution.)

Cairo is insane but a total trip. I was on a natural high a lot of the time there. I think on my own I would have found it scary but it was fun with other people. I've also been to Marrakesh (Morocco) and that is much smaller but felt crazy, too, with all the traffic and crowds. So I imagine Alexandria will feel kinda nutty as well. Be careful of the traffic, but eventually you do just have to run out into the road. The best is if you can attach yourself to a group of locals to do it. The cars will weave around you if you're relatively sensible. You'll get used to staring death in the eye when taking cab rides and the like.

I don't think Egyptian food is amazing (I liked Moroccan much more) but just try different things and have fun. It's cheap. We ate at a great restaurant in Cairo (more of an ex-pat restaurant with European-North African fusion food) which was still pretty cheap for us, and cheaper places really didn't cost much. The water is bad (at least in Cairo and probably elsewhere) so drink only bottled water. You might even want to brush your teeth with bottled water. It's also better to eat cooked veg instead of something washed in water that could make you sick.

Also, try not to laugh directly in the guy's face if he goes "Hey Beautiful! You walk like an Egyptian tonight!" (It wasn't directed at me but I overheard this in the bazaar, a guy trying to get a western girl's attention. Hilarious!) You'll definitely get called princess, gazelle, pretty lady, etc etc... Hey ho!

 

[Lightyear]

I went to Egypt in 2006 and am not a fan, I found it so stressful to simply make the locals treat me like a normal human being one can have a normal conversation with, instead of them seeing me as a white cash machine and trying to get money out of me at every turn. It's a very male-dominated culture which you can feel, at least where I went to next to the Red Sea, there was a certain softness missing, a vibe that women normally bring.

Try to get in contact with locals who have experience with Western culture (couchsurfing.org is a good starting point.) and cover up well.

 

[UniqueMixture]

Kus = pussy right?

Yeah, [MENTION=9602]YWIR[/MENTION] I heard this from a coptic Christian who grew up there and my expat friend who lived there 5 years . Red like a baboon's as they said.

 

[Oaky]

Wow! I had no idea. I guess I presumed you lived in Europe, this whole time. A meet-up could work. I'm probably going to be extremely busy -- and I'm not sure how hyper-scheduled my life will be as a result -- so I'm not sure. But I think it could happen?

Ah, of course. If it would be difficult then it's certainly understood. A lot of time would be integrated into the studies and adjustment to the area and time would likely fly.

If it's not too personal -- what inspired you to move to Egypt, and what do you do there?

I'm currently working as an architect here in line with a company elsewhere. To put it simply, I was sent here in opportunity. It's not that I was inspired but rather, I haven't much issue in the places I'd work around the world. My standards of adaptation are often quite low.

Oh, absolutely! It's pretty close to the university where we'll be taking our classes, I think. Apparently past students in the program have had lunch at the Library cafeteria every day during their half-hour lunch break.

Quite good indeed. Seems like you'll certainly be having a look at the area. I have yet to visit it myself.

I'll bet you're right about the replies. Has it been the same for you? Do you have any general social tips based on your time in Egypt?

There is often a difference between the touristic aspect and the living aspect.
Tourists may often have a one-sided view of things with most of their time being spent in the touristic parts of the country. Of course, where the tourists go, the money suckers will always sit and wait to grab on to the next victim. Troublesome bunch.
Living in Egypt will often show a different side.
You shouldn't find much issue in the ethical stance of the people in general in the normal areas of the city (not touristic nor the slums). Unless you have a car, you won't often be expected to give any tips except perhaps when a worker by the cashier at a grocery store puts all your groceries in the plastic bags for you. Of course, if you don't wish to give a tip, you don't have to.
If you wish to use a cab, it's recommended you know the common price to reach the area and confirm prices with the driver before entering the cab.
As said, people are often social and curious so you'll be dealing with a lot of talk there. A lot may also hope to accommodate your own values though many of them may very well be terrible at it.

I have memorised a number of replies to many who often ask me repeated questions but I suppose I'm a common face around them these days so I don't get as much of it anymore.
I imagine those who one might find most enjoyable dealing with there are those who had or have an academic background. Though I'd think it's a country where if you're out to see it positively, you'll most certainly enjoy it, whereas if you're out to see it negatively, you may have your views lowered.

 

[Southern Kross]

Be nice, but ALWAYS be at least slightly suspicious of people. A lot of people will try to to trick you out of or into thing. Especially the kids.

Oh, totally. Egyptians are big time rip-off merchants and scammers. When my friends went there they called being fooled/ripped off, being "Egypted".

A hand held fan when you're stuck in a taxi cab or a place without air conditioning.

Yes. The Cairo taxi cabs were 1970s Ladas - so not exactly designed for comfort or fancy things like AC. Besides, Cairo has ridiculous levels of air pollution so winding down the window is like sucking on an exhaust pipe.

In fact mini fans are a good idea in general because you won't find a lot of AC anywhere.

Always stay with a friend. Never wonder off on your own.

I disagree about this. I did this and had no problems. It's fine in the cities, anyway. If you are in more regional areas it would be better to stick with a friend. People are more traditional outside the major urban areas.

lol! BAD!

Well, it's easy to say and handy for many situations, but pretty tame really in comparison to other Arabic swear words. I remember one phrase was something along the lines of, "skull-fuck your mother!"

You could wear a wedding ring (or just a wedding-ish ring on that finger) and be prepared to lie about a husband or fiancee if asked. I don't usually advocate lying but in that respect it might be advisable.

Yeah pretending you're engaged is a good idea. People go on about being married so much and hit on you all the time, that it's easier just to lie.

Incidentally, it is a documented fact that Egyptian men (in particular) don't only harass western women because of the slutty image, which is a problem generally in that part of the world. They also harass and assault their own women pretty routinely. Again, I know this makes me sound biased but it is a well documented fact.

They do? Ugh.

Cairo is insane but a total trip. I was on a natural high a lot of the time there. I think on my own I would have found it scary but it was fun with other people.

Yeah, Cairo is an outright assault on the senses. It's so crazy, bustling, chaotic, exciting, beautiful, filthy, run-down and polluted. People tend to find it really overwhelming and struggle to cope with it. I know several friends who went there, intending to stay a week but left before the end of the same day because they were so freaked out. You have to be prepared for the madness and to give it a chance. After you overcome the immediate feelings of terror and revulsion, it's a pretty awesome place.

I don't think Egyptian food is amazing (I liked Moroccan much more) but just try different things and have fun.

Yeah, I found the food disappointing too.

 

[SD45T-2]

I'm going to Alexandria, not Mogadishu!
Thanks, though.

If you were going to Mogadishu I would have recommended a wing of A-10s and an artillery battalion.

 

[figsfiggyfigs]

Yeah pretending you're engaged is a good idea. People go on about being married so much and hit on you all the time, that it's easier just to lie.

Yup! I do this. However, if they're the even more determined and careless sort, that won't slow them down.

 

[SilkRoad]

Yeah, Cairo is an outright assault on the senses. It's so crazy, bustling, chaotic, exciting, beautiful, filthy, run-down and polluted. People tend to find it really overwhelming and struggle to cope with it. I know several friends who went there, intending to stay a week but left before the end of the same day because they were so freaked out. You have to be prepared for the madness and to give it a chance. After you overcome the immediate feelings of terror and revulsion, it's a pretty awesome place.

That totally sounds like my experience. I really don't think travelling there on my own would have been wise even just because I would have felt so overwhelmed. Even flying in and looking out the window, I thought to myself "this great beast of a city will eat me alive." But yeah, after feeling freaked out in various ways I just embraced it.

We even had a pretty crazy experience - my girlfriend and I (before our guy friends arrived) were with some Yemeni guys who she knew (very long story!!) and we were in the Khan al-Khalili bazaar, getting a lot of attention because of the odd mixture of our group and some young idiots chucked a firecracker right under our feet. I hate sudden loud bangs and it went off right in my ear, a terrifying moment. I was mad, upset and scared and couldn't relax for the rest of the evening, especially in that crazy bazaar. That was the scariest thing that happened, but you know what, it makes a great story, and most of the rest of the trip was really good.

 

[Southern Kross]

Yup! I do this. However, if they're the even more determined and careless sort, that won't slow them down.

You can even have fun with it too. My Ecuadorian friend Gabo and I met up and spent 3 days together in Sinai and Cairo. Everyone thought he was looked like an Arab so he started telling everyone he's half Egyptian and that he had an Arabic middle name. This turned into a whole story with dramatic beginning of (imagine this said in Ecuadorian accent by a Latino in a keffiyeh who thinks he's Indiana Jones), "My name is Gabriel Mahmoud!"; and then went on to explain how we are on our honeymoon and how we met and fell in love etc, etc. I had to really try hard to stop myself laughing most of the time with the ridiculous things he made up.

We even had a pretty crazy experience - my girlfriend and I (before our guy friends arrived) were with some Yemeni guys who she knew (very long story!!) and we were in the Khan al-Khalili bazaar, getting a lot of attention because of the odd mixture of our group and some young idiots chucked a firecracker right under our feet. I hate sudden loud bangs and it went off right in my ear, a terrifying moment. I was mad, upset and scared and couldn't relax for the rest of the evening, especially in that crazy bazaar. That was the scariest thing that happened, but you know what, it makes a great story, and most of the rest of the trip was really good.

Weird. I have to say I thought a lot of those Egyptian boys seemed a bit like juvenile delinquents. I viewed them with deep suspicion.

Khan al-Khalili is pretty mad though, and freakin' HUGE. I remember walking through there from one corner to the other far end. I got a little lost in the narrow, maze-like older parts in the heart of it, where most tourists don't usually venture and the curious stares increased in intensity. I'm not the sort to get disoriented or panic when I'm less than certain about my bearings, but I started to get edgy about finding the main road. It took me a good 20 min to get from one end to the other!

 

[SilkRoad]

Weird. I have to say I thought a lot of those Egyptian boys seemed a bit like juvenile delinquents. I viewed them with deep suspicion.

Khan al-Khalili is pretty mad though, and HUGE. I remember walking through there from one corner to the other far end. I got a little lost in the narrow, maze-like older parts in the heart of it, where most tourists don't usually venture and the curious stares increased in intensity. I'm not the sort to get disoriented or panic when I'm less than certain about my bearings, but I started to get edgy about finding the main road. It took me a good 20 min to get from one end to the other!

It was a crazy place and I imagine easy to get lost in, though we didn't go quite that far. I liked the souk in Marrakech a lot more, both for atmosphere and for the kind of products you could buy (lovely leather and jewellery in Marrakech, a lot of tat in Khan al-Khalili - although there was some great silver and gold jewellery too, which the place is known for.) You could get lost there too but it was just nicer, though the sellers still hassled us, of course.

Part of the problem was we were getting a lot of attention for being two Western women with several Yemeni guys. We were dressed super-modestly but who knows, we may have looked like prostitutes or groupies anyway... And apparently Yemenis who have left their country even to travel are generally considered to be massively wealthy, so everyone thought the men were filthy-rich sheikhs. I think some of the Egyptians didn't like Yemenis generally anyway. After that incident I was scared that something similar would happen when we went out with them but it didn't, though there was still hassle. And it helped when the Western guys we were travelling with joined us. Although we were a really weird looking group, because those two guys were a) English in upbringing but mixed-race so he actually looked quite Egyptian, and b) Pakistani-Italian but English upbringing...while I look northern European (people thought I was German) and my friend is American but she could be a fair-skinned Arab. WEIRD group.