I hate my car

[Chaotic Harmony]

Good luck tonight, Kym!

Thanks!!! As long as I like the way it drives I'm pretty sure I'll go ahead and buy it since I found out my insurance would be cheaper!

 

[Pixelholic]

I've been without a car for two years now, it's great.

Biking in the winter is a little rough, but not impossible.

 

[highlander]

Anyone else hate their cars?

Well, to be honest, I love my car. I'll be driving it into the ground many years from now.

 

[Aquarelle]

I set up an appointment for Tuesday morning for my mechanic to look at it. When I told him the symptoms, the first thing he asked was, "Have you checked the oil and transmission fluid levels?" I haven't - I know I'm a bit overdue for an oil change, but I just do not trust stupid Jiffy Lube or Valvoline. Sigh.... I need to learn how to change my own oil.

Anyway, if it just needs fluids, maybe it won't be so bad! Here's hoping...

Kym, did you get the car?

 

[Bamboo]

I bought my 02 Honda Civic in 2006. It had 40,000 miles on it. Clean Carfax, "Certified Pre-Owned Honda"; seemed great.

A few months later, one side of the body cracked out of the blue. I took it to the dealership to have it fixed. The technician says, "This car has been in an accident." Well, so much for the "Certified Pre-Owned" crap. Cost me $1600 to fix it.

About a year later, same thing happened on the other side. Still haven't gotten that fixed.

A couple of months ago, I had to have the control arms replaced, an $800+ repair. The car had 60,000 miles on it. Another product of the accident, I suppose - a car shouldn't have to have an $800 repair with 60,000 miles on it!

Now, the engine is being super loud and I hear a scraping sound when it shifts into 2nd and 3rd gear (I think - hard to tell in an automatic). I have no idea what to do. If it's another costly repair, I think I just need to offload my car and start over.

Car will be paid off in February. I really was looking forward to having no car payment, but I just don't think it's work it if I'm going to have to put $800 into it every 6 months.

I like Hondas, and I trust the company, but the dealership is just as shady as any used-car dealer. Next time I get a new(er?) car, I'm making an appointment to take it to my trusted mechanic the very next day, so I can tell the salesman that if my mechanic tells me there's anything, and I mean ANYTHING, wrong with the car that the salesman didn't mention, I'm bringing it right back to the dealership.

Sigh.....

Anyone else hate their cars?

Ok there are few things that stand out here.

First off, if it's Certified Pre-Owned by Honda, what did they certify about the car.

You may have specific legal recourse if they certified something falsely or incorrectly.


What was wrong with the control arms? I'm no master mechanic but why would the entire control arm need to be replaced? Were you having alignment problems (unusual tire wear)? Did they just replace the bushings (you got ripped off at $800 if so). Research suggests that it may be easier the replace the unit as a whole, but that replacing just the bushing isn't that hard of a job.


The engine being loud...as in, a loud exhaust? Or it is struggling more than usual?


And to answer your question: no. She's ugly alright, but runs great. I really need to get a van or truck, and I'm going to miss her dearly. I might keep her as a project to practice my body work skills.

But secretly I like the oxidized paint and dents because I can sit on the trunk like a bench and scrape it up and not feel bad about it.

I have a 98 Civic with 103,000 miles on it. Other than normal maintenance (including brake jobs and batteries), the alternator has needed replaced, but I suspect that was due to an electrical surge caused by a nearby lightening strike. I also replaced the front driveshafts because the boots were worn and needed replaced.

On Civics, the heat shields around the exhaust components aren't very durable. The supports rust through, and the shield rattles at certain times. This might be what is causing the scraping noise when shifting. The fix on mine was a $2 stainless steel radiator hose clamp around it.

I also had a 92 Accord I traded in at something like 250K miles. It ran great, but needed an entirely new exhaust system. These are stainless steel on Hondas. They last a long time, but are more expensive.

I do nearly all of my own maintenance and repairs.

I don't think having an alternator replaced at around 100k is unusual. I'm doubtful about the lightning theory - the rubber tires insulate your car in a rain storm. But who knows.

CV boot replacement (or, just replacing the whole drive axle) is pretty common in all front wheel drive cars around that mileage. So yeah, that's not all basic, but I suppose "expected" maintenance. Cheers for continued luck in that realm.

I have a 91 Accord (same thing as 92, CB7s were from 90-93). You don't need to drop in a stainless exhaust in those unless you want to. They make plenty of after market (but stock spec, not ricer BS) exhausts for that car for cheap. Replaced the muffler and down pipe/flex pipe on mine. Definitely did not come with stainless from the factory. Maybe a stainless muffler on the EX series, I'm not sure.

My car is damn ugly but runs great. Mechanically sound.

I've never owned my own car.

It would be awfully convenient. And at least in North America, there seems to be a lot of social significance to owning a car.

But on the other hand, they are ridiculously expensive. House and car are often the two biggest expenses in a person's life.

What do you think of the idea of not having a car?

I think you may like this article.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/08/business/08consume.html?_r=1&ref=general&src=me&pagewanted=all

EDIT:
And to answer your question, it's not just social significance. With suburbs built as they are, public transport is entirely impractical. If I lived in a major city, such as NYC, or even downtown DC (hometown) I could see not having a car. Otherwise, nah.

 

[Bamboo]

I set up an appointment for Tuesday morning for my mechanic to look at it. When I told him the symptoms, the first thing he asked was, "Have you checked the oil and transmission fluid levels?" I haven't - I know I'm a bit overdue for an oil change, but I just do not trust stupid Jiffy Lube or Valvoline. Sigh.... I need to learn how to change my own oil.

Anyway, if it just needs fluids, maybe it won't be so bad! Here's hoping...

Kym, did you get the car?

That makes some sense.

The mileage is a little low for it but maybe you lost fluid? Or have the incorrect fluid.

I know there is/was a common issue with GM trans in minivans that was commonly traced back to a transmission fluid incompatibility.

Who knows.

 

[highlander]

I think you may like this article.

http://www.nytimes.com/2010/08/08/business/08consume.html?_r=1&ref=general&src=me&pagewanted=all

Interesting article. Driving is an experience though.

 

[Lateralus]

I set up an appointment for Tuesday morning for my mechanic to look at it. When I told him the symptoms, the first thing he asked was, "Have you checked the oil and transmission fluid levels?" I haven't - I know I'm a bit overdue for an oil change, but I just do not trust stupid Jiffy Lube or Valvoline. Sigh.... I need to learn how to change my own oil.

Anyway, if it just needs fluids, maybe it won't be so bad! Here's hoping...

Kym, did you get the car?

Any time you have any sort of transmission issue, you should get it checked out immediately. Have you seen your transmission oil? If so, what color is it? It may need to be changed and that's only ~$125. That's a lot cheaper than a transmission.

You've done something lots of people do. Instead of being proactive, making sure all of their fluids are in good shape and at the proper levels, you haven't had your transmission checked until you started noticing symptoms. By that time, there's probably already some damage. It's part of the reason transmission shops (and places that change transmission fluid) get such a bad rap. People don't bring their car in until it's too late.

If you don't trust Jiffy Lube to change your oil, find another place. Don't put it off. That's the worst thing you can do.

 

[entropie]

If anyone is looking for a solid used-car try looking for a w124. I am doing that at the moment. The car has some weaknesses so you should get some information on a forum first ( or send me a pm I'll write down a list ) but then you are fine. The w124 easly does 300,000 miles if cared for properly before you have to do major repairs. And that measurement is calculated for short trips thru the city, which are bad for all engines; if you go long trips on the road the engine will even hold longer.

It's a good solid car, but only this series, the model after it sucks.

Only downside is it looks like a fancy man's car but hey, I love that

W124 E-Klasse

 

[Chaotic Harmony]

Ah, I know what you are feeling when it comes to not trusting places to do a simple task such as changing oil.... We have a Jiffy Lube across the street from my work and I refuse to take my car there... The last time I did they lost the oil cap... And then they totally destroyed my fiance's brothers engine because of something they did wrong... And because they didn't bring it back in four hours they refuse to do anything about it. Suppose it's just not normal for someone to go home and not do anything the rest of the day, in their eyes...

I actually did get the SUV I was hoping for, but not the exact one I was planning on! Instead of getting one with all the fancy stuff, I went with one that suited my needs. I really only wanted 4x4, good fuel efficiency, and a CD player. Pretty satisfied with it.

 

[Aquarelle]

Any time you have any sort of transmission issue, you should get it checked out immediately. Have you seen your transmission oil? If so, what color is it? It may need to be changed and that's only ~$125. That's a lot cheaper than a transmission.

You've done something lots of people do. Instead of being proactive, making sure all of their fluids are in good shape and at the proper levels, you haven't had your transmission checked until you started noticing symptoms. By that time, there's probably already some damage. It's part of the reason transmission shops (and places that change transmission fluid) get such a bad rap. People don't bring their car in until it's too late.

If you don't trust Jiffy Lube to change your oil, find another place. Don't put it off. That's the worst thing you can do.

Yeah, I know I shouldn't have put it off. I just get f*cking sick of being ripped off by places like that because I'm a woman and I don't know sh*t about cars. I'm not exactly rolling in cash, so I typically just get my oil changed when it is due and tell them to skip all the other crap they tell me I need (possibly including transmission fluid) because I don't know when I actually need stuff and when they're just trying to rip me off.

I've been looking for an auto repair class through community ed for awhile now, actually, so I can become better informed about this stuff, but I haven't found one. I guess most auto mechanics just want to keep the average consumer in the dark so they can wring more money out of us.

/bitterness

I've got my car into the shop I DO trust right now, and they just called me and said they didn't see anything wrong except a loose heat shield on the catalytic converter (just like JAVO said-- thanks!!). So it may not even be the transmission fluid after all.

 

[Lateralus]

If anyone is looking for a solid used-car try looking for a w124. I am doing that at the moment. The car has some weaknesses so you should get some information on a forum first ( or send me a pm I'll write down a list ) but then you are fine. The w124 easly does 300,000 miles if cared for properly before you have to do major repairs. And that measurement is calculated for short trips thru the city, which are bad for all engines; if you go long trips on the road the engine will even hold longer.

It's a good solid car, but only this series, the model after it sucks.

Only downside is it looks like a fancy man's car but hey, I love that

W124 E-Klasse

Nice car, but you probably won't find many of those in the US. And getting repairs done in the US would probably be really expensive due to scarcity of parts.

I'd recommend a 1992-1996 Toyota Camry (not a '97 or newer because they have engine sludge issues due to poor exhaust gas venting).

 

[entropie]

Nice car, but you probably won't find many of those in the US. And getting repairs done in the US would probably be really expensive due to scarcity of parts.

I'd recommend a 1992-1996 Toyota Camry (not a '97 or newer because they have engine sludge issues due to poor exhaust gas venting).

True that. I have no real clue whats brands are common in the states. I found a svabian dealer who only sells this car as a hobby together with his brother and they have customers who come from the farthest parts of Europe to just get this car. Its truly a miracle car

 

[Chaotic Harmony]

Nice car, but you probably won't find many of those in the US. And getting repairs done in the US would probably be really expensive due to scarcity of parts.

I'd recommend a 1992-1996 Toyota Camry (not a '97 or newer because they have engine sludge issues due to poor exhaust gas venting).

Maybe that was the problem with my cousin's car. She had a 98 or so Camry and it was a total piece of crap. It doesn't help that it was her brother's car before hers... He's a little rough on vehicles...

I used to be a die hard Chevy fan... But anymore I'm disappointed with them. Their electrical systems need a serious overhaul.

 

[Lateralus]

Maybe that was the problem with my cousin's car. She had a 98 or so Camry and it was a total piece of crap. It doesn't help that it was her brother's car before hers... He's a little rough on vehicles...

I used to be a die hard Chevy fan... But anymore I'm disappointed with them. Their electrical systems need a serious overhaul.

That could be, but even the best lines produce lemons once in a while. The sludge problem is manageable, and they're good cars otherwise. You just need to stay on top of it. You can't delay oil changes. I'd recommend a product called Auto-Rx if she still has the car.

 

[Lateralus]

True that. I have no real clue whats brands are common in the states. I found a svabian dealer who only sells this car as a hobby together with his brother and they have customers who come from the farthest parts of Europe to just get this car. Its truly a miracle car

Europe has a pretty small market share here. American and Japanese autos dominate the market.

 

[JAVO]

What was wrong with the control arms? I'm no master mechanic but why would the entire control arm need to be replaced? Were you having alignment problems (unusual tire wear)? Did they just replace the bushings (you got ripped off at $800 if so). Research suggests that it may be easier the replace the unit as a whole, but that replacing just the bushing isn't that hard of a job.

The non-replaceable ball joint may have been bad, and the bushings require a special tool.

I don't think having an alternator replaced at around 100k is unusual. I'm doubtful about the lightning theory - the rubber tires insulate your car in a rain storm. But who knows.

Alternator was replaced at around 40-60K. Acting as a Faraday cage will protect occupants, but it doesn't protect sensitive electronic components. Plus, we know the strike was very close, but not direct. :horor:

CV boot replacement (or, just replacing the whole drive axle) is pretty common in all front wheel drive cars around that mileage. So yeah, that's not all basic, but I suppose "expected" maintenance. Cheers for continued luck in that realm.

Yep, it's expected and typical here. We pave the streets with potholes.

Definitely did not come with stainless from the factory. Maybe a stainless muffler on the EX series, I'm not sure.

If I remember right, OEM was stainless down to the converter.

 

[Bamboo]

The non-replaceable ball joint may have been bad, and the bushings require a special tool.

Hmm. I read it wasn't too difficult to fiddle with the bushing but I suppose a shop wants to cover their butt and do it with the manufacturer tool or not do it at all.

Alternator was replaced at around 40-60K. Acting as a Faraday cage will protect occupants, but it doesn't protect sensitive electronic components. Plus, we know the strike was very close, but not direct. :horor:

Still then, I'd imagine the ECU would be fried too, then.

But I'll admit the lightning is a better story.

Yep, it's expected and typical here. We pave the streets with potholes.

If I remember right, OEM was stainless down to the converter.

Oh, the flex pipe, or at least the actual "flex" portion of the pipe, is stainless. The rest anodized or similar.