Yellowstone Backcountry?

[ExAstrisSpes]

I'm thinking about spending a week in Yellowstone this year (late June/early July); I was wondering if anyone has done any backcountry hiking? Most of the hikes I've found are 2-3 days. I'd like to do Lamar Valley (wake up early to see the wolves!), and some of the stuff in the southern end of the park sound interesting (Shoshone Lake).

Any recommendations? Tips? Good campsites? I want to stay primarily in the backcountry, as I think those campsites are easier to get (and less crowded!).

 

[ScorpioINTP]

I spent 4 weeks out west last summer. 4-5 days in Yellowstone. I recommend the tower campground if you are ok without modern facilities. Its quiet and very convenient. The park is huge and if you do driving to see any of it its 20-40 mi loops (its like a figure 8). Some campgrounds were closed when I went (south ones). Tower has nice big lots for tents, quiet, and is walking distance to the general store and some good day hikes, but more importantly is close to driving things. If you are like me, I just went to other campgrounds whenever I needed a shower and used their facilities. Those campgrounds will be louder and more crowded.

Tower is on the North side, close to Lamar valley and a short drive to the Mammoth springs area (this is a nice area too...less secluded and more arid..less trees). Its sunny..warm..kind of a microclimate, where the other areas got more precipitation and lower temps. Bison/deer roam around the roads/hotels Right across the river there is a town (Gardner MT) with shops, restaurants and general store, kayaking/rafting excursions etc. I think this area had some good 1-2 day backcountry hikes to some of the peaks from from the campsite. I was alone and wasn't prepared for that, but I'm sure you can do that from Tower too up the lamar valley and its also near 4 waterfalls and the Yellowstone Canyon.

Old faithful is the tourist trap of Yellowstone. Some cool stuff to see, but I just spent a few hrs there...some of that was charging my laptop in the lodge lobby.

If you go to the Tetons, there are good campgrounds there too. It rained and was low overcast, so I stayed only one night since it was a two week wait for clear skies. Consensus is Jenny Lake is the best place to stay, but you gotta get there seriously early. I stayed on the north end of Tetons...private tent sites and walk to the shore of the lake...nice view...restaurants and stuff there if you need it. Nothing to complain about, but I've read raving reviews of Jenny Lake.

Recommendations: Bring warm clothes and rain gear. Weather changes fast and there is snow in places year round pretty much. Nights are cold. Bring a good camera and extra batteries/flash cards (or laptop to upload the photos). I'm sure you know the basics (matches/flashlight/hammer/knife/water etc). There is plenty of wildlife to see just pulling off the roads. Some people spend all their time trying to see one thing or another, but if you miss one, don't worry you will see more.

There is a hike along the east road where you get to walk up to the fire lookout. You can see it from the main road and it must have a great view. I think its a 4-6 hr round trip. I kinda went on a whim and didn't plan one day to the next. I normally plan most stuff in advance, but I just packed my car and headed west wherever the road took me. I'm not sure I have ever done a more breathtaking drive. I have some pictures on my website to give you an idea. Its less than a 2 hr drive each way to the peak from tower (and they had road delays due to contruction in cooke city). You pass through Cooke city, which has some accomodations, restaurants etc. There is another place you might want to investigate hiking/camping. Its called Top of the world. I passed it and looked like a great place to stay (and off the beaten path...scenery easily rivals yellowstone, if not surpasses it). Be sure to check weather/road info before you go anywhere to be sure there are no road closures due to snow.

The drive from Cody, WY is nice too and there is a Dam you can tour. Where will you fly into? Cody? Jackson? other? I want to go back. I'm jealous.
It's a long drive from yellowstone 8-9hrs I think, but if you love hiking and backcountry you need to go to Glacier National Park in MT. Amazing trails and scenery! It's worthy of its own trip.


http://www.2112photography.net/nationalparks some photos of places

http://seekingthewesternpassage.blogspot.com/ I did a crappy blog too about my trip.

 

[ExAstrisSpes]

Thanks so much for sharing your experiences and sharing your blog!

I went to college in Montana, so I'm familiar with the summer weather idiosyncrasies (I've also driven up to Kalispell, and you're right that Glacier would be fun to do!). I plan to fly into Bozeman, rent a car, and then drop in through Gardiner. I'll have to look into Tower campground!

I was planning on taking more backcountry hikes and stay at backcountry campsites to avoid the crowds. I have a map from their website, and I have one book, but I was thinking about getting "Exploring the Yellowstone Backcountry" by Orville Bach. It's supposed to be really good with regard to backcountry trails.

Was it easy to get a campsite? They don't start handing out backcountry campsite reservations until April (although if you send in the application before that you get randomized with the other early applicants), and it seems quite a few campsites on Xterra are already booked through when I want to go.

Were the general stores in the national park pricey? I was thinking we could pack our own food in, and then replenish when we got back to the road.

 

[ScorpioINTP]

You're welcome.

I was there in early June and had no problem getting a campsite. I might have just been lucky? I'd say if you don't find one at first and drive around or swing back by (or talk to campers who might be leaving) and save a spot. I stayed in some remote town in Wyoming about an hr or less from Cody, so I got to Yellowstone before noon and I took my time. It was a few more hrs before I got to tower due to scenery stops and having no idea where I was going. I would say the earlier you can get to any campground the better your odds. Places like Zion NP fill up by 730am-9am at the latest. Tower is only like $12/nt.

The general stores at the national parks are reasonably priced considering their locations. Gardiner had a small supermarket that I found to be quite cheap. I even got a 6-pack of good beer for $1!. Its a short drive from Mammoth Springs. I stocked up when I was in towns and only went to the general store for coffee in the am and ice cream in the evening. You are probably best to stock up on supplies in Bozeman or somewhere on the way in for the majority of your needs though.

I would think you would have no problem getting a back country permit, esp if you can plan in advance. Oh and be sure to get a good sleeping bag as you probably know. I learned the hard way in the badlands. Tower is the smallest I think. Maybe 40 sites, if that. The others are quite large. There are lodges/cabins nearby too in Tower area and Mammoth.

You can get more information and reviews about all this at http://www.tripadvisor.com. That is where I found info for all my trips (even campsites and trails).

 

[ExAstrisSpes]

I didn't realize Zion was so popular! I used to live in that area and would go on day hikes there; never camping.

I'll definitely keep Tower as a back-up plan in case my "backpack the backcountry" plan fails. Thanks for the tip!

When I plan the trip I'll definitely try to figure out what I'll need in advance in order to limit the in-park sundry shopping I need to do. I'm getting so excited!

Thank you also for the link; I've been having some difficulty finding reviews/recommendations for the backcountry trails. My dad has been pushing Blechler Creek, but I'm not sure if those site will be open when I'll be there.

 

[ScorpioINTP]

Yeah I wasn't aware Zion was popular either til I got there and had to camp outside the park for triple the NPS rate and it was like camping in a parking lot for a grateful dead concert, with lots of loud people up late and up early and no privacy. Didn't get much sleep, but got up early enough to find a good camping spot in the park. I nearly skipped Zion, but I am so glad I didn't. I was way better than I expected and I want to go back and explore more. The backcountry parts look amazing. Capital Reef was a nice surprise too.

There used to be a good hiking guide on here.

http://www.bootsnall.com/articles/06-03/yellowstone-national-park-yellowstone-wyoming.html

But looks like the site has changed since I last visited...but search around...it looks a bit more commercial now than it was, but I thought there were hike reviews.

 

[Giggly]

I wanna go!

 

[kelric]

I wanna go!

I've only been to Yellowstone once, and it was before the big fire in... what what is... '88 or so? We went in October, which if you're staying in a lodge anyway, is the time to go. No crowds... anywhere. But I don't know if I'd want to try camping then . A friend and I are contemplating doing something like that for our 40th birthdays this summer. Perhaps not Yellowstone, but perhaps .

 

[Valiant]

Wow! I really want to go to Yellowstone. Too bad it's such a long way from across the pond where i'm at.
I will go some day, though. It's higher on my list than seeing even Rome or Constantinople (Istanbul).
Being a Roman Empire freak, I think that communicates fairly well how badly I want to go hiking there

 

[JAVO]

Wow! Sounds like an awesome trip! I hope to do that sometime.

I've done solo and family trips in the backcountry/wilderness mountain areas in the Appalachians, but have never been out west.

I could talk about backpacking, gear, and nature in general for hours, but I'll spare you the "talkative INTP" shock.

To summarize gear: less is more. But, don't skimp on the basic essentials, which is everything you need to:

Stay warm (or cool in intense heat)
Get enough water without getting sick on contaminated water
Get enough sleep to enjoy your trip and not get hurt from fatigue
Enough food that you have the energy to enjoy the hike rather than survive it
Gear and skills to make it back

If you really enjoy yourself, omit that last one.

 

[ExAstrisSpes]

Wow! I really want to go to Yellowstone. Too bad it's such a long way from across the pond where i'm at.
I will go some day, though. It's higher on my list than seeing even Rome or Constantinople (Istanbul).
Being a Roman Empire freak, I think that communicates fairly well how badly I want to go hiking there

Whoa, there's some serious outdoorsy love going on there! I <3 Roman Empire stuff too, but I haven't actually gone touristing to get my Imperial Roman fix.

I've only been to Yellowstone once, and it was before the big fire in... what what is... '88 or so? We went in October, which if you're staying in a lodge anyway, is the time to go. No crowds... anywhere. But I don't know if I'd want to try camping then . A friend and I are contemplating doing something like that for our 40th birthdays this summer. Perhaps not Yellowstone, but perhaps .

That sounds exciting! I hope you have fun no matter where you go!

Wow! Sounds like an awesome trip! I hope to do that sometime.

I've done solo and family trips in the backcountry/wilderness mountain areas in the Appalachians, but have never been out west.

I could talk about backpacking, gear, and nature in general for hours, but I'll spare you the "talkative INTP" shock.

To summarize gear: less is more. But, don't skimp on the basic essentials, which is everything you need to:

Stay warm (or cool in intense heat)
Get enough water without getting sick on contaminated water
Get enough sleep to enjoy your trip and not get hurt from fatigue
Enough food that you have the energy to enjoy the hike rather than survive it
Gear and skills to make it back

If you really enjoy yourself, omit that last one.

I want to get into talkative INTP shock! Let's hear about it!

I need to get a backpack (I have pretty much everything else, although it wouldn't hurt to upgrade some of my stuff). I'm thinking 60, 65 L. Does that sound about right? Are there any features on backpacks that you really like or don't like, and why?

There used to be a good hiking guide on here.

http://www.bootsnall.com/articles/06-03/yellowstone-national-park-yellowstone-wyoming.html

But looks like the site has changed since I last visited...but search around...it looks a bit more commercial now than it was, but I thought there were hike reviews.

Thanks for the link! I'll have to do some digging on that site!

I wanna go!

You should!

 

[JAVO]

I want to get into talkative INTP shock! Let's hear about it!

I need to get a backpack (I have pretty much everything else, although it wouldn't hurt to upgrade some of my stuff). I'm thinking 60, 65 L. Does that sound about right? Are there any features on backpacks that you really like or don't like, and why?

You'll hear more. Waiting to get a backpack last is a good idea. Good job!

That size sounds about right, but it's best to take all of your gear with you and try to pack it in the store if possible. With that size pack though, if something won't fit, you're probably better off not bringing it. I assume you'll be carrying a bear canister? What's your sleeping bag like? Make sure the pack can carry the bear canister comfortably. Some sleeping bags can take up lots of room.

I like to go as minimal and as light as possible gear-wise. For 3 season (non-winter), I use a 46 L (2800 ci) frameless pack without a hip belt or sternum strap. It's basically a nylon bag with shoulder straps and three outside mesh pockets. I use my inflatable sleeping pad folded up as a frame and back padding. Something like this only works for carrying total loads of 20 lbs or less. It also has all of the normal pack stuff (hip belt, sternum strap, frame, backpad) which I put back on for loads of 20-30 lbs.

If you want, post your gear list here or send by PM, and I'll try to think of some suggestions. Others might have some good ones too.

 

[ExAstrisSpes]

Yes, I'll need a bear canister. I'll pretty much need one if I do any extensive backpacking in my area, anyway. I'm assuming I'll be with only one other person most of the time (or rather, only have to worry about me and one other person). We haven't figured out who is going to carry the bear canister yet.

I have a mummy bag from ages ago; I'm not sure what it's rated but it was much too warm for me to use camping in Kernville last August. It will probably be OK for Yellowstone in June. I plan to get a silk liner to use for warm nights or for insulation on cold nights (not to mention protecting the bag). I also have a sleeping pad, but it's heavy and will probably upgrade to a Thermarest Prolite.

I like the idea of having a separate sleeping bag compartment, although I'm not sure why. I've seen some bags which have a zippered divider so you don't have to commit to the separate compartment though.

I have a one-person three-weather tent that looks similar to this one. I'm not sure how it compares to weight. Although, when I go backpacking I plan to share a 2-person tent, probably the REI Quarter Dome 2.

I have one of those aluminum (or stainless steel - not sure) mess/cooking kits, as well as a backpacking stove and fuel canister.

I pack light for a girl and would probably only bring 2-3 days worth of clothes (washing them as necessary). Obviously I have a "possibles" bag with a fire starter, first aid kit, whistle & mirror, etc.

I also plan on bringing a camera and binoculars.

That is a good point about bringing your gear to the store when trying on backpacks. I know REI will let you do that, although they also have sand bags they can load the packs with. Also in terms of the backpack, I plan on doing a lot of weekend-length trips with it as well, so it's not going to be a one-time-use kind of item. While I like the idea of bringing a smaller bag, I'm not sure it's something I can pull off with the bear canister.

 

[JAVO]

The pack I described above is a Gossamer Gear Gorilla. It can carry a bear canister under the top strap, although I've never tried it.

The mummy bag sounds good, and the Prolite would be great. A trash compactor liner bag is more waterproof than a stuff sack because it can be sealed completely by twisting. I have a torso-length Prolite, and I put my pack under my legs/feet for padding. I also have a torso-length Thermarest Ridgerest (foam pad roll). It's just as comfortable for me, but is bulky and usually has to be on the outside getting scraped up by branches. I slide less on it. I do enjoy the simplicity of it. I usually can't decide which one to take.

Both of those tents seem fairly nice. You might consider just an 8x10 silnylon tarp, but that takes some "art" to pitch, and even I don't usually enjoy that after a full day of hiking. If you're up high enough or in the open with breezes, bugs aren't likely to be an issue. Many seem to like the Tarptent Double Rainbow if you're shopping for a new 2 person tent.

You really only need the big mess kit pot. I mostly just rehydrate food in a freezer bag to avoid even washing the pot. A 2 cup Ziploc bowl makes a great lightweight drinking mug.

One option is to not bring any extra clothes except for an extra pair of socks. Just washing the other pair in plain water is usually good enough.

Just some thoughts on ways to make things simpler and carry less.

 

[ExAstrisSpes]

I've never set up a tarp to sleep under. I'm not "ultralight" by any means at this point!

Do you usually just get the freeze dried meals? Or do you bring/make your own meals? I found an awesome recipe for a curry chicken pita wrap that looks delicious. Not sure about ranch dressing though.

Do you wear boots or are you more of the trail running shoes type? I've heard interesting perspectives from both camps.

Oh, and I forgot to mention. The Yellowstone information page mentioned ticks in the spring/early summer. Is that something I really need to worry about? Is DEET the best kind of bug spray out there for that?

 

[Giggly]

You should!

Screw it, I think I am.

 

[JAVO]

I do a little of both for meals. The freeze dried stuff is expensive and not as healthy (salt/lower quality ingredients) or tasty, but it's easy to plan, pack, and prepare it. I take other very simple stuff like tuna and salmon pouches, quick-cooking rice, pita bread, Idahoan potato mix, instant oatmeal, peanut butter, jerky, and nuts. Salmon on crackers or a sweet & spicy tuna packet emptied into a pita are great nearly-fresh options. That curry chicken pita wrap does sound good, except maybe with chipotle ranch dressing or something like that.

I have a pair of heavy Salomon GoreTex leather boots which I never wear. They're too hot in summer, not warm enough for winter, and they're clumsy all of the time. I wear trail runners or hiking shoes (slightly beefed up trail runners). I also just started using a pair of Rocky GoreTex socks for winter, and will probably use them when the temps are below 50 or 60F anytime my feet will get wet. They're great because they can make any footwear waterproof, and if they leak, it's easier to find and repair the leak than with GoreTex inside the shoe. I would like to use FiveFingers, but don't quite like the separate toes idea. Some have broken toes on rocks that way. I read that many shoe manufacturers are coming out with more minimalist footwear this year--like FiveFingers, except without the toes.

You know your ankles best though. I don't think I've ever had a sprain I couldn't just walk off, but I'm also good at falling down to prevent a sprain. There are light and breathable boots out there too.

When it's above 60F, I generally just wear thin nylon dress socks or polyester hiking socks. Injinji toe socks are great for preventing blisters between toes.

I worry about ticks quite a bit. Lyme disease is more prevalent in my area than yours though, and there are other tick-borne diseases. Lyme disease, and probably most others, aren't transmitted if the tick is removed within in 24 hrs or so. Do a thorough body check at the end of the day--a small unbreakable acrylic mirror can be helpful for this. (Nothing fancy: just pull out the tick with tweezers, trying to get the mouth.) The best defense is to treat your clothing with permethrin insecticide before the trip. It must be dry, and cannot be applied to skin. Repel Permanone is widely available, but a big spray bottle of Sawyer brand is probably the best deal. It works agains other bugs too of course, and it's nice to not have to apply as much repellent. DEET and other repellents are only slightly effective. If you can wear long-sleeved shirts and pants, that's best, but not always practical in warmer weather. I've been using picaridin instead of the more toxic DEET, but I'm not sure how effective it is against ticks.

Consider taking bear spray since you'll be in grizzly country, but many go there without it and never have any problems.

 

[gromit]

Aw man now I wanna go too...!

 

[ExAstrisSpes]

I assume tick bites are pretty noticeable?

Gromit, you should just do it!

 

[JAVO]

I assume tick bites are pretty noticeable?

Sometimes. They're often easier to feel than see, but then visual id is needed to determine that it's not just another skin bump of some type. Once they've fed for a while though, they're really obvious.

Another thought: Much of the approach to reducing pack weight comes from small inexpensive changes. One example is using a 1 liter Platypus bottle which weighs 0.9 oz, or a plastic soda, water, or Gatorade bottle with a similar low weight, instead of a Nalgene which weighs 6-8 oz. Another is repackaging things like repellent or sunscreen into small dropper bottles with just enough for the trip instead of bringing the entire bottle. It can be fun to see how much weight you can cut. Start by weighing everything on a digital postal or food scale, and make a spreadsheet of the items and weights. Despite what it seems, it's not about gadgety, compulsive fiddling about details. It actually translates to more fun and less soreness on the trail.

There's obviously a balance though. If you're only hiking a few miles, and the highlight of the trip is cooking awesome meals, relaxing in a remote, comfortable base camp, or enjoying a bottle of wine every evening, then cutting out those items would make the trip less fun. On the other hand, cutting weight on other gear could allow more of the luxuries to be packed.