I love the music. The visuals are the best I've seen on any game yet. There are plenty of enjoyable cutscenes, and I'm into the story and characters. (Sahz is my favorite.) I usually like the story and chacters of FF games, but I didn't care for them in XII.
The gameplay is a blast, but it takes a long time before they really let you get the full effect of it. For example for a good portion of the game you don't get to choose who is in your party, and often you only have two party members. You don't really get to experience the full effect of the battle system unless you have three characters IMO. Another example is that while each character gets their own eidelon/summon, I've just gotten three of them in the past two days. For a large chunk of the game I only had Lightning's summon as an option.
I just got to a huge open area yesterday that is great to explore and play in. However before that point the game is mostly linear. So overall the game is a blast, but they take a real long time holding your hand and getting you used to the game before they really let you explore the full depths of the world, battle system etc....
My prediction about this game is that a lot of people will say it sucks and they gave up early. Then there will be another group who says they stuck with it and consider the game to be one of the best Final Fantasies. It mostly depends on if you think the early parts of the game have enough to offer to entice you on toward the later parts.